Centella asiatica (cica): the Korean soothing active explained without the hype

"Cica" has become the magic word of Korean skincare. It refers to centella asiatica, a small plant from the wetlands of Asia, used for centuries in traditional medicine and now found in one ampoule, serum or cream out of three. The claims around it range from "repairs the skin" to "erases scars". The reality is more modest, but still interesting. Here is what centella does, what studies actually show, and how to fit it into a routine for sensitive skin.

What is centella asiatica?

Centella asiatica, also called gotu kola or tiger grass, contains four main active molecules: asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Together they are known as centellosides or "TECA" (titrated extract). The nickname "cica" comes from "cicatrisation", the French word for wound healing, a shorthand inherited from its traditional use on wounds.

In Korean skincare, centella established itself from 2015 onwards as the reference soothing active, in response to demand for short, well-tolerated formulas. Two origins dominate today: Madagascar centella, known for its high centelloside content, and centella grown in Korea.

What centella does for the skin: the actual level of evidence

What is documented

• Anti-inflammatory action. In the laboratory, centellosides reduce the production of inflammatory mediators in skin cells. This is the best-established mechanism and the one that explains the soothing effect felt on redness.
• Support for collagen synthesis. Madecassoside and asiatic acid activate, in cell models, the pathways involved in collagen production. This is what justifies using centella on post-acne marks and weakened skin.
• Hydration and comfort. Several small human studies have measured improved hydration and reduced water loss after a few weeks of applying a centella cream.

What is not (yet) proven

In all honesty: the strongest clinical evidence for centella concerns oral use, notably on wound healing in people with diabetes. For topical application, human studies are few, small, and rarely independent of manufacturers. Centella does not make established scars disappear, does not treat active acne and does not replace dermatological treatment for rosacea or eczema. What it does well is make reactive skin more comfortable and help it tolerate the rest of the routine.

Who really benefits from centella?

• Sensitive and reactive skin that flushes in the cold, in heat, under stress or after a slightly harsh cleanse.
• Marked skin with post-acne redness or inflammation that lingers after a breakout.
• Skin adjusting to a strong active: retinol, acid exfoliant, pure vitamin C. On "rest" evenings, a layer of centella helps limit dryness and tightness.
• Weakened skin after sun exposure, a dermatological treatment or a dry season.

Its sensitisation risk is very low, making it one of the few actives that can be recommended with little precaution. One caveat: applied to damaged or broken skin, centella has been linked to rare cases of contact dermatitis. Keep it for intact skin, and patch test on a small area if you react to several cosmetics.

Cica ampoule, serum or centella cream: how to choose

The form matters as much as the active. Three textures answer three different needs.

The ampoule: the most concentrated, lightest centella

The SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule is the simplest product in this family: a short formula dominated by Madagascar centella extract, with an almost watery texture that leaves no film. It is the choice for combination to oily skin, for skin that dislikes the feel of cream, and for anyone who wants a single soothing layer under their usual moisturiser.

The fragrance-free serum: for the most reactive skin

The Purito Seoul Wonder Releaf Centella Serum pairs a highly dosed Korean centella extract with peptides and allantoin, in a version free of fragrance and essential oils. This is the serum to pick when skin reacts to everything, including natural fragrances. Its gel-water texture suits all skin types, morning and evening.

The cream: to rebuild the barrier

The Dr.Althea 345 Relief Cream combines centella with panthenol and a complex of ceramides and fatty acids. Where the ampoule calms, the cream repairs: its lipids fill in the skin barrier and limit water loss. It is the texture for dry skin, harsh winters and recovery evenings after retinol, when it can be applied in a thick layer like a mask.

These three products layer together without issue. For a complete ready-made routine, our soothing routine for sensitive skin brings together a heartleaf toner, the SKIN1004 ampoule and the 345 cream.

How to use centella in a Korean skincare routine

Centella is applied after cleansing and toning, before your moisturiser, morning and evening. It is compatible with all common actives: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, peptides, vitamin C. It has no pH constraints and does not cause photosensitivity.

Its Korean cousin, heartleaf (Houttuynia cordata), plays a similar role with even more limited human evidence: the two complement each other well in a routine, but one is enough to start. Do not try to stack soothing agents: sensitive skin mostly needs fewer products, not more extracts.

Allow two to four weeks to feel the difference in comfort and diffuse redness. On post-acne marks, centella supports the natural process, which takes several months; daily sunscreen remains the decisive factor.

Browse all our products in the centella / cica collection and our selection for sensitive skin.

FAQ: centella asiatica

Does centella erase acne scars?

No. It can help fade the redness that follows a breakout and support skin repair, but pitted or established scars are a matter for dermatological treatments. No cosmetic removes them.

Can you use centella every day?

Yes, morning and evening, with no time limit. It is a background active, not a course of treatment. Many people with sensitive skin make it the permanent base of their routine.

Madagascar centella or Korean centella: which is better?

Both work. Madagascar centella is often cited for its centelloside richness, but the final concentration in the product and the quality of extraction matter more than the origin. Choose by texture and tolerance, not by country.

Is centella suitable during pregnancy?

For cosmetic topical use, no contraindication has been established and its use is common. If in doubt, or if your skin is very reactive during pregnancy, ask your doctor or midwife.